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    • 专利摘要:
    HAIR STRENGTHENING COMPOSITION AND HAIR STRENGTHENING METHOD. A method of strengthening and repairing keratin fibers including providing a caustic as well as acidic crosslinking composition, wherein the caustic crosslinking composition comprises an at least bifunctional Bronsted base and the acidic crosslinking composition comprises an organic acid, at least less bifunctional, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; applying the caustic as well as acidic crosslinking composition to the keratin fibers; and optionally mixing the caustic crosslinking composition into a commercially available hair dye or hair bleach composition.
    公开号:BR112018006961B1
    申请号:R112018006961-2
    申请日:2016-01-18
    公开日:2021-06-08
    发明作者:Sabine Wagner
    申请人:Ip Full Asset Limited；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    field of invention
    [0001] A method, composition and kit to strengthen hair including providing a composition capable of binding the functional amino acid groups of keratin fibers, also comprising mixing such crosslinked composition with available hair dye or hair bleach formulations commercially. Fundamentals of Invention
    [0002] The invention relates to hair treatment agent having bifunctional active ingredients, wherein the active ingredients react with the amine groups and the carboxylic acid groups of the hair and thereby improve the quality of hair in various ways and significantly increases the durability of standing waves. The present invention also relates to a method for improving the condition of hair.
    [0003] Constant discoloration, permanent waves and coloring, and sometimes even frequent washing of the hair with degreasing surfactants or other active ingredients, can lead to damage to the hair structure. Hair becomes fragile and loses its shine. Also, styling the hair charges the hair electrostatically and the rough surface of the hair leads to hair tangle. Combing thus becomes more difficult.
    [0004] Hair treatment agents having a hair nourishing effect and which can facilitate hair styling have therefore become important and have been known in European Patent Application EP 234261. Such agents are, for example, under the name of clear hair care rinse solution or in the form of a so-called "rinse cream" emulsion distributed on still wet hair after washing the hair, left on the hair for a few minutes to an hour and the hair is then rinsed with water.
    [0005] Hair care agents based on the above-mentioned conditioning active ingredients, however, only show satisfactory results when treating dry and spongy hair. For the treatment of easily greasy hair, they tend to be less satisfying as their application makes the hair more greasy so that hair styling durability decreases. It is also known that hair styling durability is dependent on disulfide bonds which are unstable and can easily be reduced to sulfhydryl groups under reducing condition. There have been numerous attempts to re-establish disulfide bonds through the introduction of oxidizing agents.
    [0006] Many agents that improve the stability of standing waves are based on such technology. Also, a large number of patents and patent applications are directed to the restoration of disulfide bonds, such as US patent 9,095,518 B2, patent applications US 2015034119 A1, 201537270 A1, 201537271 A1 and WO 2015017768 A1. Nevertheless, the hair treatment agents that are described in these documents have plenty of room for improvement.
    [0007] It has also been tried to apply amino acids such as a weak acidic mixture of different amino acids and vitamins (US-PS 4201235) as a hair conditioner component to avoid the disadvantages of known hair treatment agents. However, the production of such a mixture of different vitamins and amino acids is problematic and expensive.
    [0008] Furthermore, the application of hydrolysates of keratin and citric acid in a "neutralizing shampoo" is known from the literature "Cosmetics and Toileteries" Vol. 98 (1983), S. 59-68. This shampoo, however, has only a low hair care effect and leads to severe dehydration of the hair. For this reason, it is necessary to apply hair conditioning agents once or repeatedly after washing the hair.
    [0009] It is also known from the literature W. Fassbender, Parfümerie & Kosmetik, 39 (1), S. 11-16 (1958) that the amino acid liquid, which contains from 18 to 22 different amino acids, can be applied, for example, in hair treatment adjusted with weak acid and hair care agent. The production of such a liquid of amino acids is carried out by the fractional hydrolysis of natural proteins and subsequent purification of the hydrolysates obtained. It is, therefore, difficult to guarantee the constant composition of the liquid, which is important for the quality of the cosmetic agent.
    [0010] The aim of the invention is to provide a hair treatment agent and a hair treatment method that are based on bifunctional organic acids as well as bifunctional Bronsted bases and which overcome the above-described disadvantages. The current invention especially provides a new hair care agent, which is suitable for producing long lasting hairstyles. It has been found, surprisingly, that the hair care agent containing the following combinations meets these requirements:
    [0011] In both of these two formulations, the bifunctional compounds should have a concentration of 1-30% by weight, respectively.
    [0012] Generally, formula (a) is applied before formula (b). However, it is also possible to apply formula (b) before formula (a).
    [0013] The at least bifunctional organic acid of step (a) is selected from the group of oxalic, malonic, succinic, glutaric, adipic, pimeric, suberic, azelaic, sebacic, undecanedioic, dodecanedioic, methylmalonic, methylsuccinic, acid, 2- methylglutaric, aspartic, maleic, fumaric, itaconic, mesaconic, methylmaleic, phthalic, isophthalic, terephthalic, malic, ketomalonic, 4-ketopimelic, citric, isocitric, actonitic, propan-1,2,3-tricarboxylic, trimesic, metatetracarboxylic, meso-butan-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic, furantetracarboxylic, derivatives and mixtures thereof.
    [0014] The at least bifunctional Bronsted's base proton acceptor X and Y groups of step (b) are independently selected from the carboxylate, nitrate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, primary amine, secondary amine, sulfate and carbonate group.
    [0015] The hair is dried between steps (a) and (b) and the drying time is 1 to 60 minutes, whereby a drying device is used to dry the hair.
    [0016] These formulas should be left on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes.
    [0017] It is of advantage that the formulas of steps (a) and (b) are independently mixed into a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and that the cosmetically acceptable vehicle of the formula of step (a) is identical or not to the cosmetically acceptable vehicle of the formula of step (b).
    [0018] It is also of advantage that the formula of step (a) is mixed with a commercially available hair coloring or hair bleaching formulation, prior to application to the hair. On the other hand, the formula from step (b) can be mixed with a commercially available hair color formulation.
    [0019] It is also advisable that, prior to the application of step (a), the hair is treated with a hair care composition containing thioglycolic acid for permanent wave treatment. Invention Summary
    [0020] Described herein is a method for strengthening and/or repairing hair comprising the steps of: (a) applying a hair care composition to the hair, wherein the hair care composition comprises an at least bifunctional Bronsted base of the formula general XRY, where X and Y are proton acceptor groups and R is an organic spacer comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and XRY has a molecular weight of less than 500 g/mol, and leave the caustic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes, (b) optionally rinse, shampoo and/or dry the hair, (c) apply a formula to the hair that comprises a crosslinking composition comprising an at least bifunctional organic acid capable of reacting with the amino groups of the hair, and leaving the caustic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes, (d) optionally rinsing, shampooing and/or drying the hair, characterized wherein the composition of step (a) has a pH of 7 to 12, and the composition of step (c) has a pH of 1.5 to 7. Optionally, the hair strengthening composition of step (a) can be mixed with commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formulations prior to application. When applied without prior mixing in a commercially available hair dye or bleach formulation the hair strengthening method can be changed in such a way that the hair strengthening composition of step (c) is applied before the hair strengthening composition of step (a). Detailed description of the invention
    [0021] In this document, including in all embodiments of all aspects of the present invention, the following definitions apply unless specifically indicated otherwise. All percentages are by weight of the total composition. All relationships are weighty relationships. References to "parts", for example a mixture of 1 part X and 3 parts Y, are a weight ratio. “QS” or “QSP” means the amount sufficient for 100% or for 100g. +/- indicates standard deviation. All scales are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant digits does not transfer neither a limitation on the quantities indicated nor on the precision of the measurements. All numerical quantities are understood to be modified by the word "approximately". All measurements are understood to be made at 25°C and under ambient conditions, where “environmental conditions” mean 1 atmosphere (atm) of pressure and 50% relative humidity. “Relative humidity” refers to the ratio (indicated as a percentage) of the moisture content of the air compared to the saturated level of humidity at the same temperature and pressure. Relative humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. Here, "min" means "minute" or "minutes"; "mol" means mols; “nanometers” is abbreviated as “nm”; “g” after a number means “gram” or “grams”. All weights, as they refer to listed ingredients, are based on the active level and do not include vehicles or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials. Here, “understanding” means that other steps and other ingredients can be added. "Understanding" encompasses the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of". The compositions, formulations, methods, uses, kits and processes of the present invention may comprise, consist and consist essentially of the elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps or limitations described herein. Embodiments and aspects described herein may comprise or be combinable with elements, features or components of other embodiments and/or aspects, although not expressly exemplified in the combination, unless an incompatibility has been indicated. "In at least one embodiment" means that one or more embodiments, optionally all embodiments or a large subset of embodiments, of the present invention have/have the feature described below. Where quantity ranges are given, these shall be understood to be the total amount of said ingredient in the composition, or where more than one species falls within the scope of the ingredient definition, the total amount of all ingredients falling within that definition in the composition . For example, if the composition comprises from about 1% to about 5% fatty alcohol, then a composition comprising 2% stearyl alcohol and 1% cetyl alcohol would fall within the scope.
    [0022] “Viscosity” is measured at 25°C using a HAAKE VT 550 Rotation Viscometer with cooling/heating sump and sensor system according to DIN 53019 at a shear rate of 12.9 s-1.
    "Water Soluble" refers to any material that is sufficiently soluble in water to form a clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% by weight of the material in water at 25°C. The term "insoluble in water" refers to all material that is not "soluble in water".
    [0024] "Substantially free of" or "substantially free" means less than about 1%, or less than 0.8%, or less than 0.5%, or less than 0.3%, or about 0 %, by total weight of the composition or formulation.
    [0025] "Keratin fibers" means the fibrous material composed of keratin. “Hair” means mammalian keratin fibers which include scalp hair, facial hair, eyelashes and body hair. The term includes such hair still being attached to a living individual, and likewise hair that has been removed from it such as hair and hair samples on a doll/dummy. In at least one modality, “hair” means human hair. "Hair shaft" or "hair fiber" means an individual hair strand and can be used interchangeably with the term "hair".
    [0026] "Cosmetically acceptable" means that the compositions, formulations or components described are suitable for use in contact with human keratin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response and the like. All compositions and formulations described herein that are intended to be directly applied to keratin tissue are limited to those that are cosmetically acceptable.
    "Derivatives" include, but are not limited to, amide, ether, ester, amino, carboxyl, acetyl, acid, salt and/or alcohol derivatives of a given compound. In at least one embodiment, "derivatives thereof" means starch, ether, ester, amino, carboxyl, acetyl, acid, salt and alcohol derivatives.
    [0028] "Monomer" means a discrete, unpolymerized chemical part capable of undergoing polymerization in the presence of an initiator or any suitable reaction that creates a macromolecule, for example such as polycondensation, polyaddition, anionic polymerization or cationic. “Unit” means a monomer that has already been polymerized, that is, it is part of a polymer.
    [0029] "Polymer" means a chemical formed from the polymerization of two or more monomers. The term "polymer" will include all materials made by polymerizing monomers as well as natural polymers. Polymers made from only one type of monomer are called homopolymers. Here, a polymer comprises at least two monomers. Polymers made from two or more different types of monomers are called copolymers. The distribution of the different monomers can be random, staggered, or block (ie block copolymer). The term "polymer" used herein includes any type of polymer including homopolymers and copolymers.
    [0030] "Kit" means a package comprising a plurality of components. “Kit” can be referred to as “kit-of-parts”. An example of a kit is, for example, a first composition and a second composition packaged separately and, optionally, application instructions.
    [0031] Details of the different aspects of the invention are described below. Description
    [0032] A method for strengthening keratin fibers is described herein. The method allows a semi-permanent strengthening of the hair shaft to be carried out either by treating the hair with such a hair strengthening composition or by mixing the hair strengthening composition with commercially available hair coloring or bleaching compositions. The method comprises two distinctly different formulations, of which one formulation has a pH value of >7 and the second formulation has a pH value of <7. The first formula is referred to as “caustic”, the second formula as “acidic”. The hair strengthening effect is retained after at least one shampoo treatment. In addition, the inventors have found that this method increases the shape's water and moisture resistance, increases ease of styling and/or increases the shape's viability after shampooing and when mixed with a coloring or bleaching formulation. Commercially available hair, the "caustic" hair strengthening formulation has no adverse effect on proper hair coloring or bleaching performance when the caustic pH is chosen to be in the pH range of 9 to 11. Without wishing to be limited by any In theory, it is believed that the above benefits are due to the steps conducted, their sequence, as well as the specific components used, including the active agent. Active agents selected from the diffuse acidic formula in the keratin fiber stem are believed to react with the amino groups on the keratin polypeptide and bind these functional groups in the keratin protein structure, providing sufficient crosslinking bonds to overcome the strength of innate restoration of keratin fiber structure. The acidic formulation cannot react with the potentially available sulfhydryl groups of the hair as the reaction conditions are acidic. A hypothetical reaction of potential hair sulfhydryl groups requires the deprotonation of such sulfhydryl groups. Since the selected protonating agents of the present invention are stronger acids than the sulfhydryl groups, such a reaction cannot take place. Likewise, active agents selected from the caustic formula diffused into the keratin fiber stem are believed to react with the carboxylic acid groups on the keratin polypeptide and bind these functional groups. This results in a durable strengthening of keratin fibers, for example a durable hair damage repair.
    [0033] Details of the different aspects of the invention are described below. Crosslink Composition
    [0034] The crosslinking compositions of the present invention are distinctly different from one another and work synergistically. The order in which they are applied is irrelevant for the benefit to be achieved, however, relevant when mixed with a commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formula. Commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formulations comprise a pH adjusting agent which makes the pH caustic. In the case of oxidative hair coloring, a shift of >0.5 pH units can result in a color shift of the final hair color. In case a commercially available hair bleach formulation is applied, a shift by >0.5 pH units reduces the bleaching power of such commercially available hair bleach formulation. Therefore, if additives are added to commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formulations it is important that these additives do not alter the pH of the hair dye or hair bleach. As both commercially available hair dyes as well as commercially available hair bleach formulations have a pH of 8 to 12, it is important that they are mixed with the "caustic" of the present invention. When mixed with the commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formulation the mixed formula is applied first, followed by the second unmixed hair strengthening composition. A waiting time of 1-45 minutes between application steps is recommended. Optionally, the hair is rinsed and dried between the first and second application stages. Optionally, a waiting time of 1-45 minutes is employed between application of the acidic and caustic hair strengthening composition.
    [0035] The acidic hair strengthening composition [b] is typically applied after the caustic hair strengthening composition [a] and comprises at least bifunctional Bronsted acids as crosslinking agents. Bronsted acids, at least bifunctional, are preferred for the acidic hair-strengthening composition as they can build a bridge between hair's vicinal amino groups. Most bifunctional Bronsted acids are natural derivatives, which are preferred by consumers over synthetic compounds. This is not just for health reasons and lack of awareness, but also for sustainability and environmental reasons because naturally derived compounds decompose naturally and quickly and do not require special disposal methods. Furthermore, they are also easy to extract and relatively inexpensive.
    Without wishing to be bound by theory, the hair strengthening caustic makeup agent reacts with the carboxylic acid groups of the hair and provides additional crosslinks of the hair proteins. Hair comprises keratin polypeptides containing carboxylic acid [-COOH], hydroxyl [-OH], amino [-NH2] functional groups and potentially some sulfhydryl [-SH] groups. The different active agents can preferentially react with each functional group. For example, at least bifunctional Bronsted acids react with amino groups, whereas at least bifunctional proton acceptors react with carboxylic acid groups.
    [0037] The at least bifunctional Bronsted acid as well as the at least bifunctional proton acceptor are present in a concentration of 1 to 30% by weight of the total acidic or caustic crosslinking composition, preferably 2 to 25%, more preferably 3 to 20%, more preferably 4 to 15%, and even more preferably 5 and 10%. The molar ratio of the at least bifunctional proton acceptor to the at least bifunctional Bronsted acid is from about 1:1 to about 3:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 2.5:1, even more preferably from about 2:1 to 2.5:1.
    [0038] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition independently comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is any vehicle suitable for formulating the active agent into a crosslinking composition that is suitable for application to hair. In at least one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is selected from an aqueous medium or an aqueous-alcoholic medium. In at least one embodiment, when the vehicle is an aqueous-alcoholic medium vehicle, this vehicle comprises water and an alcohol. In at least one embodiment, the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of: ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, when the vehicle is an aqueous vehicle, this vehicle consists essentially of water and is substantially free of alcohol. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition independently comprises a safe and effective amount of the cosmetically acceptable vehicle. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition independently comprises from about 0.1% to about 99%, or from about 1% to about 98%, or from about 10 % to about 97%, or from about 30% to about 95% water, by weight of the crosslinking composition.
    [0039] Other ingredients may be present in the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises antioxidants. Antioxidants are useful in that they provide long term stability to the crosslinking composition. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a safe and effective amount of an antioxidant. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 1.0% antioxidant. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid (vitamin C), ascorbyl fatty acid esters, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g. magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sorbate of ascorbyl), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, hydroxybutylated benzoic acids and their salts, peroxides including hydrogen peroxide, perborate, thioglycolates, persulfate salts, 6-hydroxy-2 acid, 5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the trade name Trolox™), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, ferulic acid and its salts and esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid, amines (eg N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (eg glutathione), dihydroxyfumaric acid and its salts, lycin pidolate, pilo arginine lato, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine, 1-methionine, proline, dismutase superoxide, silymarin, tea extracts, grape skin and/or grape seed extracts, melanin, rosemary extracts, and mixtures of same. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is tocopherol sorbate or an ester of tocopherol. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is sodium benzoate. In at least one embodiment, the antioxidant is ferulic acid. Ferulic acid has the benefit of increasing the oxidative stability of the formulation. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a safe and effective amount of ferulic acid. In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 1.0% ferulic acid.
    [0040] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a chelate or a chelating agent. As used herein, "chelate" or "chelating agent" means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex such that the metal ion cannot readily participate in or catalyze chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelating agent is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can contribute to excessive changes in flaking or skin texture and against other environmental agents that can damage the skin in order to decrease the local iron load, which generates, as indicated above, a pro-oxidant situation and pigmentation. A chelating agent is useful in that it provides long term stability to the crosslinking composition. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a safe and effective amount of a chelate or chelating agent. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a chelating agent, and where the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of: N-hydroxysuccinimide, EDTA, NTA, deferoxamine, hydroxamic acids and their salts , phytic acid, phytate, gluconic acid and its salts, transferrin, lactoferrin, and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a safe and effective amount of chelating agent. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.001% to about 10%, or from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.1% to about 5%, or from about 0.5% to about 1.0% chelating agent. Exemplary chelates that are useful herein are disclosed in US Patent No. 5,487,884, issued January 30, 1996 to Bissett et al.; International Publication No. 91/16035, Bush et al., published October 31, 1995; and International Publication No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published October 31, 1995. In at least one embodiment, the chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of: N-hydroxysuccinimide, deferoxamine, lactoferrin, hydroxamic acids, gluconic acid, phytic acid, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
    [0041] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition is in a form suitable for application to hair. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition is in the form of an emulsion, a solution or a dispersion. In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises a surfactant. The surfactant can be useful in providing an emulsion. In at least one embodiment, when in the form of an emulsion, said emulsion may be a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion. An emulsion has the benefit of providing an easy-to-apply composition for the consumer to apply to hair and has aesthetic advantages. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can be a leave-on composition or in a leave-on composition. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can be in the form of a hair conditioner composition. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise at least one cosmetic agent selected from hair styling polymers, conditioning agents, hair cleaning agents or mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a hair styling polymer. In at least one embodiment, the hair styling polymer is selected from the group consisting of: non-ionic hair styling polymer, anionic hair styling polymer, zwitterionic and/or amphoteric hair styling polymer, hair styling polymer cationic or mixtures thereof. Appropriate hair styling polymers can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary and Manual, “Hair Fixatives”, 12th edition (2008). Suitable hair styling polymers are, for example, those materials disclosed from page 12, line 5 to page 19, line 1 of European Patent Application 08151246.9 filed February 11, 2008, which is incorporated herein by reference.
    [0042] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, or from about 0.1% to about 8%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% hair styling polymer.
    [0043] In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises a non-ionic hair styling polymer. In at least one embodiment, the nonionic hair styling polymer is a natural or synthetic polymer. In at least one embodiment, the nonionic hair styling polymer is a polymer obtained from the polymerization of at least one type of monomer selected from: vinylpyrrolidone; vinylcaprolactam; vinyl esters; vinyl alcohol; vinyl acetate; methacrylamide and/or its derivatives; methacrylic acid, its salts and/or its derivatives; propylene and/or ethylene glycol acid; crotonic acid; or mixtures thereof. For example, such polymers are available under the trademarks Luviskol® or Luviset Clear®.
    [0044] In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises an anionic hair styling polymer. In at least one embodiment, the anionic hair styling polymer is selected from the group consisting of: acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate/N-alkylacrylamide terpolymer; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymer; C1-C5 alkyl acrylate acid copolymer/methacrylic acid; sodium polystyrenesulfonate; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl alkanoate copolymer; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer; aminomethylpropanol acrylate copolymer; vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylic copolymer; methyl vinyl ether/monoalkyl maleic esters copolymer; allyl methacrylate/methacrylate copolymer aminomethylpropanol salts; ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer; vinyl acetate/mono-nbutyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer; octylacrylamide/methacrylic acid copolymer; polyesters of diglycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and sulphoisophthalic acid; and mixtures thereof.
    [0045] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a zwitterionic or amphoteric hair styling polymer. In at least one embodiment, the zwitterionic or amphoteric hair styling polymer is selected from the group consisting of: alkylacrylamide/alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers; copolymers that are formed from at least one first type of monomer that has quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer that has acidic groups; copolymers of fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; methacryloylethylbetaine/methacrylic acid and/or esters copolymers; polyquaternium-47; polyquaternium-43; oligomers or polymers preparable from croton quaternary betaines or croton betaine quaternary esters; or mixtures thereof.
    [0046] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a cationic hair styling polymer. In at least one embodiment, the cationic hair styling polymer is selected from the group consisting of homopolymers or copolymers, where quaternary nitrogen groups are present in the polymer chain or as a substituent in one or more of the cationic monomers. Monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers can be the unsaturated, free radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and vinyl quaternary monomers with cationic nitrogen-containing cyclic groups such as pyridinium, imidazole or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazole, alkylvinylpyridinium or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as, for example, alkyl groups from C1 to C7, particularly preferably alkyl groups from C1 to C3. Appropriate non-cationic monomers can be selected from methacrylamide, derivatives thereof; acrylate, its derivative thereof; vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol. For example, suitable cationic hair styling polymers are available under the trade names Gafquat 755 N; Gafquat 734; Gafquat HS 100; Luviquat HM 550; Merquat Plus 3300; Gaffix VC 713; Aquaflex SF 40. In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises a cationic hair styling polymer derived from a natural polymer. In at least one embodiment, the cationic hair styling polymer derived from a natural polymer is derived from a natural polymer selected from the group consisting of: derived from cationic polysaccharides such as cellulose, starch and/or guar gum; chitosan, its salts and/or its derivatives; or mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the cationic hair styling polymers are selected from the group consisting of: polyquaternium-4; polyquaternium-10; polyquaternium-24; Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; chitosonium pyrrolidonecarboxylate; and mixtures thereof.
    [0047] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a conditioning agent, or a hair conditioning agent. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can comprise any suitable and conventional hair conditioning agents. The term "hair conditioning agent" in this specification means any cosmetically acceptable compound that has a cosmetic effect on hair, such as providing hair shine, making hair more manageable, improving hair feel, improving the ability to brush and/or add volume to the hair. Appropriate hair conditioning agents can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary and Manual, "Hair conditioning agent", 12th edition (2008). In at least one embodiment, the hair conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of: cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, silicone compounds, organic oily conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof. Suitable hair conditioning agents are, for example, those materials disclosed on page 19, line 3 through page 27, line 33 of European Patent Application 08151246.9 filed February 11, 2008, which is incorporated herein by reference.
    [0048] In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a cationic surfactant. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant comprises amino or quaternary ammonium moieties. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.05% to about 3.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 3.0%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or from about 1.0% to about 2.0% cationic surfactant. In at least one modality, the cationic surfactant is in accordance with Formula II:
    wherein at least one of R71, R72, R73 and R74 is selected from: an aliphatic group of 8 to 30 carbon atoms; an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl; or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms; wherein the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from the group consisting of: an aliphatic group consisting of 1 to 22 carbon atoms; and an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; wherein X is selected from the group consisting of: halogen, acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfonate radicals and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is according to Formula II (see above), wherein at least one of R71, R72, R73 and R74is an aliphatic group having from 16 to 24 carbon atoms; wherein the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from the group consisting of aliphatic groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; wherein X is selected from the group consisting of: chloride or sulfate. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate; stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate; and mixtures thereof. A longer alkyl group is believed to provide improved softness and a soft feel to wet and dry hair compared to cationic surfactants with a shorter alkyl group. Likewise, it is believed that such cationic surfactants can provide reduced scalp irritation compared to those having a shorter alkyl group. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is a di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt selected from the group consisting of: dialkyl (14-18 carbons) dimethyl ammonium chloride, di-tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, chloride of dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is a tertiary amidoamine having an alkyl group of about 12 to about 22 carbons. In at least one embodiment, the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts; trimethyl behentrimonium salts; dimethyl ditallow ammonium salts; stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine; diesterquats; quaternium 8, 14, 15, 18, 22, 24, 26, 27, 30, 33, 37, 53, 60, 61, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84 and/or 91; or mixtures thereof.
    [0049] In at least one modality, the conditioning agent is a non-ionic surfactant. Appropriate nonionic surfactants can be surfactants that have an HLB of less than 8. Appropriate nonionic surfactants can be selected from glyceryl esters; sugar esters; alkylpolyglycoside ethers; oleyl- or isostearylpolyglycoside; polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate; or mixtures thereof.
    [0050] In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a silicone compound. In at least one embodiment, the silicone compound is volatile or non-volatile and/or soluble or insoluble silicone. For example, suitable silicone conditioning agents are available under the trade names SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid (Electric company); Fluid DC200, DC244, DC245, DC345, Dow 5-7113, Cosmetic Grade Fluid DC556, DC1248 (Dow Corning). In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a conditioning agent which is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (B); polysiloxane; and optionally (c) a polyether. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a conditioning agent, and wherein the conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of: epoxyaminosilane copolymers and polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymers, and mixtures of the same. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a conditioning agent which is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (b) polysiloxane; and (c) a polyether; and optionally (d) an amine. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane is an epoxy capped polysiloxane. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane comprises at least two oxirane or oxetane groups. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane comprises from about 10 to about 450 silicon atoms, or from about 40 to about 400 silicon atoms, from about 75 to about 350 silicon atoms, from about 150 to about 250 silicon atoms. In at least one embodiment, the polysiloxane is an epoxy-capped polysiloxane. In at least one embodiment, the polyether has the structure CH2(O)CHCH2O(CH2(CH3)CH2O)nCH2CH(O)CH2 (average) where n is an integer from 1 to 10. In at least one embodiment, the amine comprises 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or 2 to 5 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, the amine is an alkylamine that is substituted with at least one alkyl group. In at least one embodiment, the amine is selected from the group consisting of: methylamine, ethylamine, propylamine, ethanol amine, isopropylamine, butylamine, isobutylamine, hexylamine, dodecylamine, oleylamine, aniline, aminopropyltrimethylsilane, aminopropyltriethylsilane, aminomorpholine, aminopropyldiethylamine, benzylamine, naptylamine 3-amino-9-ethylcarbazole, 1-aminoheptafluorohexane, 2,2,3,3,4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7,8,8,8-pentadecafluoro-1-octanamine and mixtures of the same. In at least one embodiment, the amine is selected from the group consisting of: methylethylamine, methylhexylamine, methyloctadecylamine, diethanolamine, dibenzylamine, dihexylamine, dicyclohexylamine, piperidine, pyrrolidone, phthalimide and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is an epoxyaminosilane copolymer. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a conditioning agent that is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (b) polysiloxane, wherein the polysiloxane comprises from about 10 to about 450 silicon atoms, or from about 40 to about 400 silicon atoms; and (c) a polyether; and (d) an amine, wherein the amine is an alkylamine that is substituted with at least one alkyl group.
    [0051] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of: epoxyaminosilane copolymers and polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymers and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a polydimethylsiloxane derivative comprising aminoalkyl groups and having an amine number of at least 0.1 meq/g of polydimethylsiloxane. Such polydimethylsiloxane derivative can be, for example, methoxy-terminated or hydroxy-terminated or mixtures thereof.
    [0052] In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is an organic oily conditioning agent. In at least one embodiment, the organic oily conditioning agent is non-volatile, water-insoluble, oily, or fatty. Organic oily conditioning agents can be selected from hydrocarbon oils and fatty esters. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol. In at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a non-volatile, low-melting fatty alcohol. In at least one embodiment, the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol and the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of: caprylic alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
    [0053] The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise at least one direct hair dye. In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 8%. of direct hair dye.
    [0054] The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise at least one viscosity modifying agent. In at least one embodiment, the crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.05% to about 10%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% of viscosity modifying agent.
    [0055] The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise at least one emulsifier and/or surfactant. In at least one modality, the emulsifier and/or surfactant are selected from non-ionic surfactants; anionic surfactants; amphoteric surfactants; or mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.05% to about 10%, or from about 0.1 % to about 5% of emulsifier and/or surfactant.
    [0056] The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise at least one pigment. In at least one modality, the pigment is selected from natural pigments; synthetic pigments; or mixtures thereof. Pigments can be selected from organic pigment, inorganic pigment; or mixtures thereof. Pigments can be selected from colored pigments; pearlescent pigments; or mixtures thereof. Said acidic as well as caustic composition may comprise from about 0.01% to 10%, or from about 1% to about 2% of pigment present in the mass of the product in undissolved form by weight of the acid crosslinking composition. , as well as caustic, total. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can comprise pigment materials such as inorganic components, nitrous, monoazos, diazos, carotenoids, triphenyl methanes, triaryl methanes, xanthenes, quinolines, oxazines, azines, anthraquinones, indigoides, thiocridonas, quinocrygonides, quinones phthalocyanines, botanical colors, natural, including: water-soluble components such as those having CI Names
    [0057] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises at least one particulate substance. In at least one embodiment, the particulate substance is selected from silica; silicates; aluminates; clay lands; mica; insoluble salts, particularly insoluble inorganic metal salts; metal oxides; minerals; insoluble polymer particles; or mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises from about 0.01% to about 10%, or from about 0.05% to about 5% of at least one particulate substance. . In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition is substantially free of a particulate substance such as clay.
    [0058] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises at least one preservative. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can comprise from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.05% to about 1% of preservative.
    [0059] A variety of additional optional ingredients can be incorporated into the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredients can be selected from preservatives; antioxidants; sequestering agents; solvents; fragrances &perfumes;fillers; selection agents; odor absorbers; coloring materials; lipid vesicles; detergent action surfactants; thickening agents and suspending agents; viscosity modifiers; pearl finishing aids; UV filters and sunscreen; agents to fight free radicals; polyvinyl alcohol; pH adjusting agents; salts; coloring agents; polymeric plasticizers; direct dyes; or mixtures thereof. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can comprise about 0%, or from about 0.1% to about 5% antimicrobial agents. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises an organic acid selected from the group consisting of: glycine, L-methionine, L-arginine, biotin, creatine and mixtures thereof. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises panthenol. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a wax compound. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises beeswax.
    In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition has a viscosity, measured at 25°C, of from about 0.1 mPa^s to about 1,000,000 mPa^s, or about about from 1 mPa^s to about 80,000 mPa^s, or from about 5 mPa^s to about 3,500 mPa^s. Viscosity is measured by HAAKE VT 550 Spin Viscometer with cooling/heating vessel and sensor systems according to DIN 53019 (MV-DIN, SV-DIN), shear rate is 12.9 s-1.
    [0061] In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises a buffering agent. In at least one embodiment, the buffering agent is a phosphate buffer. In at least one embodiment, the buffering agent is a borate buffer or a carbonate buffer. In at least one embodiment, the buffering agent is selected from the group consisting of: glycine/sodium hydroxide; sodium carbonate/sodium hydrogen carbonate, sodium tetraborate/sodium hydroxide; sodium bicarbonate/sodium hydroxide; ammonium chloride/ammonia. The buffering agent has the advantage of controlling the pH, which helps the stability of the crosslinking composition. In at least one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition comprises an alkalizing agent and/or an agent for adjusting the pH value. The acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition may additionally comprise a protonating agent. The protonating agent can be a monoprotic or polyprotic acid, a water-soluble or water-insoluble acid and/or an organic or inorganic acid. In at least one embodiment, the protonating agent is selected from formic acid, acetic acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof. Method
    Described herein is a method of hair strengthening and/or hair repair comprising: (a) applying a caustic crosslinking composition to the hair and leaving the caustic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes; (b) optionally, rinsing, shampooing and/or drying the hair; (c) applying an acidic crosslinking composition to the hair and leaving the acidic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes; (d) optionally rinse, shampoo and/or dry the hair. Prior to step (a), the hair strengthening composition can be mixed with commercially available hair dye or bleach formulations. If mixed with commercially available hair dye or bleach formulations the method steps are in the order (a) then (b) then (c) then (d). If not mixed with commercially available hair dye or bleach formulation the method steps can be (c) then (d) then (a) then (b). In the method of the present invention, the acidic as well as caustic crosslinking composition can be applied to wet hair and/or dry hair.
    [0063] In one embodiment, prior to the first step of the method, which may either be step (a) or step (c), the hair is washed with a shampoo, for example a cleansing shampoo. In one modality, at the end of the treatment cycle, in this way, right after step (b) or step (d), depending on whether the method started with step (a) or step (c), the hair is conditioned with a a conditioner formulation comprising a conditioning agent. Conditioning agents are disclosed here and are suitable for this modality. In one modality, hair is dried using a blow dryer and a brush.
    [0064] In one embodiment, the method refers to a method of hair strengthening and/or hair repair comprising: (a) applying a caustic hair care composition to the hair, wherein the hair care composition comprises an at least bifunctional Bronsted base of general formula XRY, where X and Y are proton acceptor groups and R is an organic spacer comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and XRY has a molecular weight of less than 500 g/mol, and leave the caustic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes, (b) optionally rinse or dry the hair, (c) apply to hair an acidic formula comprising a crosslinking composition comprising an organic acid, at least bifunctional, capable of reacting with the amine groups of the hair, and leaving the acidic hair strengthening composition for 1 to 45 minutes, (d) optionally, rinsing , washing with shampoo and/or drying the hair abelo, characterized in that the composition of step (a) has a pH of 7 to 12, and the composition of step (c) has a pH of 1.5 to 7. Optionally, the hair strengthening composition of step (a ) can be mixed into commercially available hair dye or bleach formulations prior to application. When applied without prior mixing in a commercially available hair dye or bleach formulation, the hair strengthening method can be changed such that the hair strengthening composition of step (c) is applied before the hair strengthening composition of step (a). Applying a Hair Care Makeup to Hair
    [0065] The present invention relates to a method of strengthening and/or repairing hair comprising: (a) applying a caustic hair care composition to the hair, wherein the hair care composition comprises at least a Bronsted base bifunctional, of general formula X-RY, wherein X and Y are proton acceptor groups and R is an organic spacer comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and 0 to 5 oxygen atoms, and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and XRY has a molecular weight of less than 500 g/mol, and (c) applying to the hair an acidic formula comprising a crosslinking composition comprising an at least bifunctional organic acid capable of reacting with the amino groups of the hair, involving application to the hair. hair from about 0.01 grams to about 5 grams of said compositions per gram of hair. In one embodiment, the acidic as well as caustic composition stays in the hair for at least 1 minute, or from about 5 minutes to about 45 minutes, or from about 10 minutes to about 40 minutes, or about 20 minutes to about 35 minutes, before performing the remaining step, (a) or (c), depending on whether the method started with step (a) or (c). hair drying
    [0066] The method of hair strengthening and/or hair relaxation may optionally comprise drying the hair in steps (b) and/or (d). In one embodiment, hair drying is carried out by a dryer. In one modality, hair drying is carried out for a duration of about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, or about 2 minutes to about 20 minutes, or about 5 minutes to 15 minutes. Generally, following hair drying, the hair may still be damp, but it needs to have, for example, a reasonable 75% hair fiber separation from the head of hair. Some residual moisture in the hair is acceptable. In one modality, hair drying is performed by a helmet device. In one embodiment, drying the hair is accomplished by drying the hair with a towel and/or pressing the hair with your hands.
    [0067] Distances between the device and the head for helmet hair dryers or blow dryers are typically below and up to about 10 cm. Blow dryers direct hot air through some accessory for styling or otherwise treating your hair. A blow dryer is typically used in such a way that it moves away from the hair (for example, at a distance of 20 or 30 or 40 centimeters) and is often used with the aid of a comb or brush. In one embodiment, hair drying is carried out by a blow dryer at a temperature of from about 50°C to about 100°C. In one mode, hair drying is carried out by a blow dryer at a temperature of up to 130°C. In one modality, hair drying is performed with a blow dryer with the brush to help style the hair.
    [0068] In one embodiment, the hair strengthening and/or repair method comprises, in addition to steps (a), (b), (c), (d), also a hair straightening step (e). The hair straightening step (e) comprises using a hair straightening device comprising metal or ceramic plates. In one embodiment, the metal or ceramic plates are provided at a temperature of about 100°C to about 280°C. In one embodiment, the metal or ceramic plates are provided at a temperature of from about 110°C to about 250°C, or from about 120°C to about 240°C, or from about 140°C to about 230°C, or from about 160°C to about 220°C, or from about 180°C to about 210°C, or from about 190°C to about 200°C.
    [0069] In one modality, "hair straightening with the device" is performed for a duration of about 1 minute to about 45 minutes, or about 2 minutes to 20 minutes, or about 5 minutes to 15 minutes minutes. In one embodiment, "mechanical hair straightening with the device" is performed for a duration of at least 10 minutes, or at least 12 minutes.
    [0070] In one embodiment, method (a) to (d) is repeated 2 to 4 times a month, on a permanent basis, for the purpose of strengthening the hair and reducing damage to the hair.
    [0071] In one embodiment, the caustic crosslinking composition may comprise a first, second, and third crosslinking agent. The first crosslinking agent can be 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, the second can be 4,9-Dioxa-1,12-dodecanediamino and the third crosslinking agent can be 1,11-Diamino- 3,6,9-trioxaundecane.
    [0072] In one embodiment, the crosslinking composition may comprise: - from about 3% to about 24% of 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 4,9-Dioxa-1,12- dodecanediamine and 1,11-Diamino-3,6,9-trioxaundecane, present in a weight ratio of 1:1:1, 2:1:1 or 4:1:1; - optionally, a buffering agent; - a cosmetically acceptable vehicle; - a conditioning agent which is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (b) polysiloxane; and optionally (c) a polyether; and where the composition has a pH of from about pH 7 to about pH 12.
    [0073] In one embodiment, the formulation comprises from about 0.1% to about 15%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 5% of a conditioning agent that is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (b) polysiloxane; and optionally (c) a polyether. In one embodiment, the conditioning agent is the reaction product of: (a) an aminosilane; (b) polysiloxane; (c) a polyether.
    [0074] In one embodiment, a kit may comprise: (i) a caustic crosslinking composition; (ii) an acid crosslinking composition; (iii) a conditioner composition. In one modality, the kit might be to strengthen and repair damaged hair. In one modality, the kit may be to improve the ease of styling the hair.
    [0075] In one embodiment, the crosslinking agent can be used to strengthen hair and/or repair damaged hair. In one embodiment, the caustic as well as acidic crosslinking composition can be used to improve hair styling ease. Examples
    [0076] The following examples describe and demonstrate additional embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given for the purpose of illustration only, and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention as many variations thereof are possible without departing from its scope. Example of compositions for the caustic crosslinking composition (100g total mass):
    [0077] Liquid A: 10 g of 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 5 g of 4,9-Dioxa-1,12-dodecandiamine, 5 g of 1,11-Diamino-3,6 ,9-trioxaundecane, 2 g epoxyaminosilane copolymer, QSP water.
    [0078] Liquid B: 25 g of 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, QSP water.
    [0079] Liquid C: 12 g of 4,7,10-Trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 3 g of 4,9-Dioxa-1,12-dodecandiamine, 3 g of 1,11-diamino-3,6 ,9-trioxaundecane, 2 g epoxyaminosilane copolymer, QSP water.
    [0080] Conditioner with Rinse A: 16 g of 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 8 g of 4,9-dioxa-1,12-dodecandiamine, 1.00 g of cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methylester, 1.00 g Dow Corning 949® cationic emulsion, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g oils perfume, QSP water.
    [0081] Rinse B conditioner: 18g of 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecanediamine, 1.00 g of cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g of polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g of phenoxyethanol, 0 .20 g PHB-methylester, 8.00 g Dow Corning 57113® cationic emulsion, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g perfume oils, QSP water.
    [0082] No-Rinse Conditioner A: 6 g of 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 3 g of 4,9-Dioxa-1,12-dodecane-diamine, 1.00 g of cetyltrimethyl chloride ammonium, 1.00 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methylester, 8.00 g Cationic Emulsion® Momentive™, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g oils of perfume, QSP water.
    [0083] No-Rinse Conditioner B: 10 g of 4,7,10-trioxa-1,13-tridecandiamine, 5 g of 1,11-Diamino-3,6,9-tri-oxaundecane, 0.10 g of acetate of vitamin E, 0.50 g of polymethylphenyl siloxane, 10.00 g of propylene glycol, 0.50 g of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 0.05 g of sodium chloride, 0.30 g of d-panthenol, 0.30 g of PHB-propylester, 2.00 g of isododecane, 0.20 g of perfume oil, QSP water. Example compositions for acid crosslinking composition (100g total mass):
    [0084] Liquid A': 25 g maleic acid, QSP water.
    [0085] Liquid B': 24 g of itaconic acid, QSP water.
    [0086] Liquid C': 12 g maleic acid, 12 g itaconic acid, 3 g 1,11-diamino-3,6,9-trioxaundecane, 2 g epoxyaminosilane copolymer, QSP water.
    [0087] Conditioner with rinse A': 12 g of maleic acid, 1.00 g of cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g of polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g of phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g of PHB-methylester, 1 .00 g Dow Corning 949® cationic emulsion, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g perfume oil, QSP water.
    [0088] Rinse conditioner B': 6 g maleic acid, 6 g itaconic acid, 1.00 g cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g of PHB-methylester, 8.00 g Dow Corning 57113® cationic emulsion, 5.00 g isododecane, 0.40 g perfume oil, QSP water.
    [0089] No-Rinse Conditioner A': 3 g maleic acid, 1.00 g cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, 1.00 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 0.40 g phenoxyethanol, 0.20 g PHB-methylester, 8 .00 g of Cationic® Momentive™ Emulsion, 5.00 g of isododecane, 0.40 g of perfume oils, QSP water.
    [0090] No Rinse Conditioner B': 3 g maleic acid, 3 g itaconic acid, 0.10 g vitamin E acetate, 0.50 g polymethylphenyl siloxane, 10.00 g propylene glycol, 0.50 g of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 0.05 g of sodium chloride, 0.30 g of d-panthenol, 0.30 g of PHB-propylester, 2.00 g of isododecane, 0.20 g of perfume oil, QSP water . Data
    [0091] The effectiveness of the hair strengthener is tested for the caustic as well as acidic crosslinking compositions of the present invention. Low volume natural hair samples are employed. They are washed with a K-PAK lightening shampoo to ensure the hair is in a clean state, without the residue that could affect the final result. The samples are then rinsed. Excess water is removed from the hair by wringing out the samples. The samples are treated with a crosslinking composition comprising active agents as listed in TABLE 1 and QSP water buffered at pH 10 for the caustic crosslinking composition and QSP water buffered at pH 4 for the acidic crosslinking compositions. These ingredients are mixed on a stir plate for 15 minutes. 0.5 g of the crosslinking composition per 1 g of hair are employed. The crosslinking composition is left on the hair for 30 minutes. After this time, the hair is dried and brushed with a standard metal comb for 500 passes. Hair strengthening and hair damage are assessed by recording the weight of broken hair fibers collected from hair brushing and normalized to the weight of the hair samples. 5 hair samples per experiment are treated and combed, results are averaged. When a first and second treatment were employed, the hair samples were first treated with the caustic hair strengthening composition according to the above-mentioned description, with no hair drying step, then followed by the treatment of the acidic hair strengthening composition. according to the above-mentioned description, including drying the hair. Table 1. Hair breakage results after n comb passes

    [0092] When calculating the average of more than five experimental results, the relative standard deviation is less than 15%. As can be seen from Table 1, sequential application of a caustic hair strengthening composition of the present invention with an acidic hair strengthening composition of the present invention significantly reduces hair breakage. The same hair breakage reduction results were obtained when the caustic hair strengthening composition was first mixed into a commercially available hair color formulation, left in the hair sample for a time specified by the hair color manufacturer's guidance, followed by application of the acid hair strengthening composition as instructed above, followed by subsequent drying of the hair.
    [0093] To color human hair using oxidative dye technology it is generally necessary to treat the hair with a mixture of suitable oxidative coloring agents and at least one dye oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used dye oxidizing agent. However, in addition to dye oxidation, the hydrogen peroxide treatment of hair can also solubilize the colored component of melanin in the hair and can lead to undesirable hair qualities, such as bad condition, due to increased fragility and damage to the hair. . These undesirable qualities are, in part, due to the necessary conditions of conventional peroxide treatment, as part of the hair coloring process, which require high pH (>pH 9), prolonged exposure (10 to 60 minutes) and relatively high concentration of oxidation solutions (volume up to 20% oxygen) in order to deliver effective oxidation to the dye. Thus, there is a need for hair coloring compositions that can effectively oxidize dyes and color hair while strengthening hair to provide prevention of hair damage.
    [0094] The process for hair bleaching is very similar to the hair coloring process. Bleaching is basically a process of removing the hair's natural color. Due to the virtually unlimited variations of hair colors, bleaching alone will not generally produce a uniform or aesthetically pleasing color in the hair, nor will it produce a shade of color other than that inherent in the hair. For these reasons, hair that has been bleached is subsequently treated with a hair colorant, a composition that contains a hair dye that gives the final desired color to bleached hair. The degree to which the natural color must be bleached from the hair is determined primarily by the desired final color. Toners don't lighten hair tone to any great extent; they give its shade coloring to pre-bleached hair to the desired base blond shade, for example pastel blond shade is achieved on pro-bleached to pale blond hair, not pre-bleached hair only to light brown.
    [0095] Applied alone or mixed with commercially available hair dye or hair bleach formulations, followed by subsequent application of the acid hair strengthening composition, treating the hair with the caustic as well as acid strengthening composition. hair of the present invention, improves hair quality, reduces hair breakage, reduces hair damage, improves hair shine and luster, facilitates hair styling, and improves hair moisture resistance.
    [0096] The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values reported. Rather, unless otherwise stated, each such dimension is intended to mean the reported value and a functionally equivalent scale surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "10%" is intended to mean "about 10%".
    [0097] Each document cited herein, including any cross-reference or related patent or patent publication, is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. Citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior to the entire document disclosed or claimed herein, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses a modality. Additionally, to the extent any meaning or definition of a term herein conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition ascribed to that term in this document will govern.
    [0098] While the particular modalities have been illustrated and described here, it should be understood that various other changes and alterations can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the matter claimed. Furthermore, although various aspects of the claimed subject matter are described herein, such aspects need not be used in combination. It is, therefore, intended that the added claims cover all such changes and amendments that are within the scope of the subject matter claimed.
    权利要求:
    Claims (25)
    [0001]
    1. Method to strengthen hair and improve hair quality in various ways and significantly increase the durability of permanent waves, with the active ingredients reacting with the amine groups and the carboxylic acid groups of the hair, the method characterized by the fact that it understands the steps of: a) applying to the hair a first formulation containing a Bronsted base at least bifunctional of general formula XRY, in which X and Y are independently selected from amino, carboxylate, nitrate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, sulfate and carbonate groups and R is an organic molecular group with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, 0 to 5 oxygen atoms and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and is not an aromatic or heteroaromatic compound, and XRY has a molecular weight of less than 500 g/ mol, and b) applying to the hair a second formulation containing an organic acid at least bifunctional capable of reacting with the amine groups of the hair, wherein the first formulation has a pH of 7 to 12, and the second formulation has a pH of 1.5 to 7.
    [0002]
    2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the concentration of Bronsted base at least bifunctional in (a) is from 1 to 30%.
    [0003]
    3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the concentration of the at least bifunctional organic acid in (b) is from 1 to 30%.
    [0004]
    4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that step (a) is performed before step (b).
    [0005]
    5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that step (b) is performed before step (a).
    [0006]
    6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least bifunctional organic acid of step (a) is selected from the group of oxalic, malonic, succinic, glutaric, adipic, pimeric acid , suberic, azelaic, sebacic, undecanedioic, dodecanedioic, methylmalonic, methylsuccinic, 2-methylglutaric, aspartic, maleic, fumaric, itaconic, mesaconic, methylmaleic, phthalic, isophthalic, terephthalic, malic, ketomalonic, ketomelic, 4-keto , propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic, trimesic, methanetracarboxylic, ethylenetetracarboxylic, meso-butane-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic, furantetracarboxylic, derivatives and mixtures thereof.
    [0007]
    7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the proton acceptor groups X and Y of the at least bifunctional Bronsted base of step (a) are independently selected from amino, carboxylate groups , nitrate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, sulfate and carbonate.
    [0008]
    8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hair is dried between steps (a) and (b) and the drying time is 1 to 60 minutes.
    [0009]
    9. Method according to claim 8, characterized in that a drying device is used for drying hair.
    [0010]
    10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the formulation of step (a) is left on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes.
    [0011]
    11. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the formulation of step (b) is left on the hair for 1 to 45 minutes.
    [0012]
    12. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that there is a waiting time between the applications of steps (a) and (b) or (b) and (a) from 1 to 60 minutes .
    [0013]
    13. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the formulations of steps (a) and (b) are independently mixed with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and in which the cosmetically acceptable vehicle of the step formulation (a) is identical or not to the cosmetically acceptable vehicle of the formulation of step (b).
    [0014]
    14. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the formulation of step (a) is mixed with a commercially available hair coloring or hair bleaching formulation prior to application to the hair.
    [0015]
    15. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that before the application of step (a) the hair is treated with a hair care composition containing thioglycolic acid.
    [0016]
    16. Kit to strengthen hair and improve hair quality in various ways and significantly increase the durability of permanent waves, with the active ingredients reacting with the amine groups and the carboxylic acid groups of the hair, the kit characterized by the fact that it contains hair at least two separate formulations, wherein the first formulation contains an at least bifunctional Bronsted base of general formula XRY, wherein X and Y are each independently selected from amino, carboxylate, nitrate, hydrogen phosphate, phosphate, sulfate, carbonate groups and R is an organic molecular group with 1 to 20 carbon atoms, 0 to 5 oxygen atoms and 0 to 5 nitrogen atoms, and is not an aromatic or heteroaromatic compound, and XRY has a molecular weight below 500 g/mol and the second formulation contains an at least bifunctional organic acid which can react with the amine groups of hair and wherein the first formulation has a pH of 7 to 12 and the second formulation has a p. H from 1.5 to 7.
    [0017]
    17. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that it additionally comprises a hair conditioner.
    [0018]
    18. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the concentration of Bronsted base at least bifunctional in the first formulation is from 1 to 30%.
    [0019]
    19. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the concentration of the at least bifunctional organic acid in the second formulation is from 1 to 30%.
    [0020]
    20. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the at least bifunctional organic acid of the second formulation is selected from the group of oxalic, malonic, succinic, glutaric, adipic, pimelic, suberic, azelaic, sebacic acid , undecanedioic, dodecanedioic, methylmalonic, methylsuccinic, 2-methylglutaric, aspartic, maleic, fumaric, itaconic, mesaconic, methylmaleic, phthalic, isophthalic, terephthalic, malic, ketomalonic, 4-ketopymelic, citric, a1,2-propane, isocitric ,3- tricarboxylic, trimesic, metanotetracarboxylic, ethylenetetracarboxylic, meso-butane-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic, furantetracarboxylic, derivatives and mixtures thereof.
    [0021]
    21. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the first and second formulations additionally contain at least one viscosity modifying agent.
    [0022]
    22. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the first and second formulations additionally contain at least one emulsifier and/or a surfactant.
    [0023]
    23. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the first and second formulations additionally contain at least one particulate material.
    [0024]
    24. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the first and second formulations additionally contain at least one preservative.
    [0025]
    25. Kit according to claim 16, characterized in that the first and second formulations, independently of each other, are mixed with acceptable cosmetic substrates, and the acceptable cosmetic substrate of the first formulation is identical or different from the cosmetic substrate acceptable of the second formulation.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    DE202016008131U1|2017-04-20|
    CL2018000897A1|2018-10-12|
    CN105267066B|2019-06-11|
    AU2016336593A1|2018-04-19|
    EA201890918A1|2018-11-30|
    SG10202107220RA|2021-08-30|
    HK1221397A1|2017-06-02|
    TW201713308A|2017-04-16|
    IL258288D0|2018-05-31|
    EP3391873A4|2019-11-27|
    US20200170910A1|2020-06-04|
    DE202016008491U1|2018-02-27|
    US20180000703A1|2018-01-04|
    WO2017059646A1|2017-04-13|
    EP3391873A1|2018-10-24|
    JP2018530609A|2018-10-18|
    CN110101590A|2019-08-09|
    DE202016008643U1|2018-10-22|
    CN105267066A|2016-01-27|
    JP6900383B2|2021-07-07|
    ZA201801982B|2020-09-30|
    SG11201802892SA|2018-06-28|
    US11213468B2|2022-01-04|
    CA3001229A1|2017-04-13|
    BR112018006961A2|2018-10-16|
    IL258288A|2021-02-28|
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    法律状态:
    2019-10-15| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|
    2021-03-30| B09A| Decision: intention to grant [chapter 9.1 patent gazette]|
    2021-06-08| B16A| Patent or certificate of addition of invention granted [chapter 16.1 patent gazette]|Free format text: PRAZO DE VALIDADE: 20 (VINTE) ANOS CONTADOS A PARTIR DE 18/01/2016, OBSERVADAS AS CONDICOES LEGAIS. |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    CN201510645964.6|2015-10-08|
    CN201510645964.6A|CN105267066B|2015-10-08|2015-10-08|For handling the method and its kit of hair|
    PCT/CN2016/000029|WO2017059646A1|2015-10-08|2016-01-18|Method and kit for processing hair|
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